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History, Giorgio Armani- History

Giorgio Armani- History

What he really did was take away the restrictions and confinements of stiffer styles that had

gone before it.

He made it appropriate in the workplace for women to wear trouser suits.

He made men feel sophisticated and perfectly tailored.

Changes in menswear happen incredibly rarely.

You have the rise of America in the early 20th century and that changed menswear.

You had the Industrial Revolution in the 19th and that changed menswear.

And what Armani did in the 70s changed menswear as well and it's affected the way that every

suit in the world is made.

Giorgio Armani was born in Piacenza in Northern Italy in 1934.

You do get a sense when he's talked about his upbringing that the war was very evident.

There's a story that he and one of his friends were playing with an unexploded shell in the

streets and the shell went off, it killed his friend and it severely burnt Armani.

Armani's family were a middle class family and like others during the Second World War

suffered great hardship financially and Armani has said that even finding food was difficult

at this period of time.

After the war and after studying medicine and being in the army, Armani went to work

for a Milanese department store.

He always said that that for him was his introduction to knowing about fabric but more importantly

it was an introduction to customers.

This was a really extraordinary step because it was a very forward thinking pioneering

store and he had suddenly access to really creative, extraordinary people and he rose

through the ranks very, very quickly.

So he started doing buying soon after joining which I think is a very interesting kind of

career path because extraordinary from others who have either other designers who have learnt

their craft from their mothers or have studied in a sort of art school setting.

He really didn't, he studied on the department store floor.

There's lots of pictures of him from around then and he was always kind of incredibly

well presented.

He was a very precise child.

When he wound up meeting Mino Chiruti who offered him his first kind of fashion job

after working at the department store, Chiruti's first comment to him was that he looked respectable

and then he tossed a bunch of fabrics across to him and asked Armani to pick his favourites

and Armani said it was lucky that he picked the same favourites as Chiruti and that's

why Chiruti took him on as kind of part of his company.

The first thing that Chiruti did when Armani started there was send him to the textile

mills that Chiruti still owns and operates to look at how cloth was made and Armani said

really at that point there was, that kind of imbued a certain passion for textile in

him, the fact that he was able to see how fabric was constructed, able to experiment

with a huge variety of fabrics.

Obviously as a designer, that's something that's proved incredibly important.

It's something that he's still known for now, his use of textile in tailoring and how he

was able to kind of soften tailoring and revolutionise it by using all the fabrics that he was introduced

to under his work at Chiruti.

Chiruti has a very similar aesthetic to what Armani then went on to in his own brand.

Chiruti had this really extraordinary way of using different fabrics to tailor menswear

and so Armani ended up working on Chiruti's menswear line called Hitman and this is a

really, really exciting period of time where he kind of gained a language from being mentored

by Chiruti.

Really that whole way that the Beatles looked, the way that all of the mods looked in the

60s was Italian tailoring and that was all based on these kind of very neat, very precise,

very tight cuts and that was only possible through these incredibly fine fabrics and

new kind of techniques of tailoring.

Towards the end of the 60s, Armani met Sergio Galeotti, which marked the beginning of a

personal and professional relationship.

Sergio Galeotti was a friend of Armani, he became Armani's lover, but he was also the

person that really encouraged Armani to break out on his own.

He said to Armani, why are you designing these wonderful clothes for all these other people,

why aren't you designing them for yourself, why aren't you doing it under your own name?

And this spurred on Armani to take contracts as a freelancer, so designing for a range

of different designers and I think that that sets him on the path that we now associate with him.

Really it was off the back of all of this freelance and the money that Armani had made

from his freelance work and actually from selling his car, him and Galeotti sold the

Volkswagen that they owned together to get seed capital of $10,000 to start their own company.

There was only one table that Armani would be drawing on one side and Galeotti would

be trying to work out the business on the other side.

You know, it was an incredibly small company.

Don Mello actually said in one of his early collections that the lighting was so bad,

Armani ended up getting up and taking the shade off the lamp so it was a bare bulb so

she could see the colours of the clouds better and she bought the collection because what Armani

did at that time was to, in very broad terms, to soften menswear and to harden womenswear.

The first line, Spring Summer 1976, was really all about celebrating this craft of suppler lines,

slightly wider trouser legs in really, really delectable fabrics.

So it was really quite fresh but in a very kind of refined way.

This whole idea of adding a certain sensuality and softness to men's suits and creating

something that chimed with this kind of wave of femininity that was then affecting society as a

whole but actually not affecting high fashion to a great degree.

But what Armani did was to kind of work on perfecting a uniform for a new generation of

working women and in the 70s that seemed revolutionary and obviously what it actually

did was set the blueprint for the 80s.

In 1978, Armani signed an agreement with clothes manufacturer GFT.

In the history of the company, GFT gave them financial backing and this was really integral

because it meant that their production and textile manufacture was really, really supported.

They had done extraordinarily well, turning over two million sales in just the first few years of

being founded.

In the same year, the same group made an agreement with Versace to manufacture his clothes as well.

And really what that was seen as in fashion at the time was this rise of Milan as a competitor

to Paris and it was this rise of Italy as a commercial and a creative force in fashion

and a real challenge to the kind of supremacy of Paris at that period.

In the United States, Armani's designs were received really very, very well.

GQ referred to it in the late 70s as the total look.

In Armani coming to America in 1979, it's notable that that was the first time his clothes

were available in the country and by the end of the 80s, Armani had become the biggest

selling European designer in the whole of the United States.

I think after the 70s, the 80s really became a decade that was about designers,

more so actually than the clothes.

The interesting thing with when you look at Armani's designs for women's wear, especially

if you compare it to someone like Versace, he generally didn't make clothes that exuded

femininity in the same way that Versace did.

They weren't kind of clothes that were about women with enormous personalities, but for

a lot of women, they found a certain comfort in that.

They found that it was the way that they wanted to dress to feel confident, to feel secure

and to feel like they could compete in a man's world.

It was a really extraordinary kind of marriage with these women looking for things to wear

in this business corporate sense, but that really enhanced their elegance and their beauty,

but were appropriate in terms of getting confidence and feeling strong and independent.

The tailoring fabrics that were used were not the stiff and stuffy fabrics that had

been used previously.

They were soft and fluid.

The first Armani SPA store in Milan was in 1983.

Armani and Galliotto took their time to open this space, so really being super selective

about the way in which they sold their garments.

So really from the very beginning, it was one store in major cities that was selling

just a very limited stock, which added to this exclusivity.

Soon after, they opened on Madison Avenue in New York and then following with London.

And I think these shops really kind of helped to make them a global brand, but it was all

very considered.

The 1980s started well for Armani as he continued to find new ways in which to showcase his

brand to a worldwide audience.

And you were beautiful

Kind of concurrently, strangely, the things that happened were he dressed Richard Gere

for American Gigolo, he launched Emporio Armani, and he launched Armani Perfume.

In the early 80s, Armani partnered up with L'Oreal and created a line of fragrances.

This was very interesting in the sense that they were an extension of the brand, so more

in terms of the total look that his clothes could create.

Also, you're now playing into a scent that the Armani woman would wear.

The interesting thing with Armani signing the agreement with L'Oreal is first of all

that L'Oreal don't sign these agreements very often.

It was 20 years after Armani before they signed anyone new to collaborate with on a fragrance

line.

It's building this kind of idea that this is a lifestyle, but to fit in with the life

that you already have.

When they actually first approached Armani to dress American Gigolo, Armani said he would

do it because he knew he was launching Emporio Armani and he knew the publicity that it would

generate for him.

So he knew he was launching a lower price, more widely available brand, and he wanted

to be able to capitalize on the publicity that the film would generate for him.

I think it was something that really defined him.

I think it was something that really defined an era.

American Gigolo became this kind of classic film where these suits worn by gear, it was

just so perfect for the character.

Armani really understanding exactly the way in which clothes can tell a narrative within

this sphere of film.

I think when you watch that film, when you look at it, at times it's like an extended

advert for Armani.

You know, you look at the stills from it and they could be Armani advertising campaigns

from the same time.

And today it seems sort of commonplace, but then it was really unique, especially in menswear

to have that kind of vision presented cinematically.

And then also to suddenly have a lower price line that you could buy into, a perfume line

that you could buy into.

Commercially, it was incredibly savvy to kind of capitalize on the publicity that was generated

from that.

And I think that was probably what really established Armani's name in America.

You lured me in the sky.

Having found success with his work on American Gigolo, Armani continued to dress many of

Hollywood's biggest films.

After American Gigolo, Armani went on to design costumes for films, notably Batman, Pulp Fiction.

But the real big hitter, I think in terms of legacy, was Miami Vice, which was a TV

show, but really sort of defined the 80s in many ways.

The costumes in themselves, unlike American Gigolo, where the costumes were absolutely

the focus, the costumes aren't especially remarkable.

What I find remarkable is that certainly the later incarnations of that are for me a reflection

of Armani's relationship with Hollywood, which in the late 80s and early 90s really blossomed

into something beyond films.

Armani became the first designer that was actively petitioning to dress people for the

red carpet.

At a time when no other fashion houses were doing that, he offered to dress them in high

fashion that was desirable and low-key, which obviously is a major part of Armani's aesthetic,

is the fact that it is quite subdued.

It is elegant.

It is low-key.

It's minimalist.

It's simple.

And all of those things appeal to Hollywood stars.

It's so intertwined with this kind of Oscar season dressing that is reported by far and

wide and a real obsession in popular culture.

When Sergio

Giorgio Armani- History Джорджо|| Giorgio|Armani|Historia Giorgio Armani - Geschichte Giorgio Armani - Histoire Giorgio Armani - Storia ジョルジョ・アルマーニ-歴史 Giorgio Armani- Historia Giorgio Armani- História Джорджио Армани - История Giorgio Armani- Tarihçe Історія Джорджіо Армані 乔治·阿玛尼 (Giorgio Armani) - 历史喬治·阿瑪尼 (Giorgio Armani) - 歷史 Giorgio Armani - Historia

gone before it. ido|antes|eso existido antes.

You had the Industrial Revolution in the 19th and that changed menswear. tú|tuviste|la|Industrial|Revolución|en|el|siglo 19|y|eso|cambió|la moda masculina Tuviste la Revolución Industrial en el siglo XIX y eso cambió la moda masculina.

suit in the world is made. |en|||| hace cada traje en el mundo.

Giorgio Armani was born in Piacenza in Northern Italy in 1934. ||fue||||||| Giorgio Armani nació en Piacenza, en el norte de Italia, en 1934.

You do get a sense when he's talked about his upbringing that the war was very evident. ||||||||||crianza|||||| Se puede percibir, cuando habla de su crianza, que la guerra fue muy evidente.

There's a story that he and one of his friends were playing with an unexploded shell in the hay|una|historia|que|él|y|uno|de|sus|amigos|estaban|jugando|con|un|sin explotar|proyectil|en|las Hay una historia de que él y uno de sus amigos estaban jugando con un proyectil sin explotar en las

suffered great hardship financially and Armani has said that even finding food was difficult sufrieron grandes dificultades financieras y Armani ha dicho que incluso encontrar comida era difícil.

at this period of time. en|este|período|de|tiempo en este período de tiempo.

After the war and after studying medicine and being in the army, Armani went to work Después|la|guerra|y|después|estudiar|medicina|y|estar|en|el|ejército|Armani|fue|a|trabajar Después de la guerra y tras estudiar medicina y estar en el ejército, Armani fue a trabajar

for a Milanese department store. para|un|milanés|departamento|tienda para una tienda por departamentos de Milán.

He always said that that for him was his introduction to knowing about fabric but more importantly él|siempre|dijo|que|eso|para|él|fue|su|introducción|a|conocer|sobre|tela|sino|más|importante Siempre dijo que eso para él fue su introducción a conocer sobre telas, pero más importante

it was an introduction to customers. eso|fue|una|introducción|a|clientes fue una introducción a los clientes.

This was a really extraordinary step because it was a very forward thinking pioneering esto|fue|un|realmente|extraordinario|paso|porque|eso|fue|un|muy|adelante|pensante|pionero Este fue un paso realmente extraordinario porque era una tienda pionera muy visionaria.

through the ranks very, very quickly. a través|los|rangos|muy|muy|rápido a través de las filas muy, muy rápidamente.

career path because extraordinary from others who have either other designers who have learnt |carrera|||||||||||| trayectoria profesional muy interesante porque es extraordinaria en comparación con otros que tienen

their craft from their mothers or have studied in a sort of art school setting. diseñadores que han aprendido su oficio de sus madres o que han estudiado en un tipo de entorno de escuela de arte.

He really didn't, he studied on the department store floor. Él realmente no lo hizo, estudió en el piso de la tienda por departamentos.

There's lots of pictures of him from around then and he was always kind of incredibly hay|muchas|de|fotos|de|él|de|alrededor|entonces|y|él|estaba|siempre|tipo|de|increíblemente Hay muchas fotos de él de esa época y siempre estaba increíblemente

well presented. bien|presentado bien presentado.

He was a very precise child. él|era|un|muy|preciso|niño Era un niño muy preciso.

after working at the department store, Chiruti's first comment to him was that he looked respectable después|trabajar|en|la|departamento|tienda|de Chiruti|primer|comentario|a|él|fue|que|él|lucía|respetable después de trabajar en la tienda por departamentos, el primer comentario de Chiruti hacia él fue que se veía respetable

and then he tossed a bunch of fabrics across to him and asked Armani to pick his favourites y|entonces|él|lanzó|un|montón|de|telas|hacia|a|él|y|preguntó|Armani|a|elegir|sus|favoritos y luego le lanzó un montón de telas y le pidió a Armani que eligiera sus favoritas

why Chiruti took him on as kind of part of his company. por qué|Chiruti|llevó|él|a|como|tipo|de|parte|de|su|compañía es por lo que Chiruti lo aceptó como parte de su empresa.

him, the fact that he was able to see how fabric was constructed, able to experiment él|el|hecho|que|él|estaba|capaz|a|ver|cómo|tela|fue|construida|capaz|a|experimentar él, el hecho de que pudo ver cómo se construía la tela, pudo experimentar

It's something that he's still known for now, his use of textile in tailoring and how he eso es|algo|que|él está|todavía|conocido|por|ahora|su|uso|de|textil|en|sastrería|y|cómo|él Es algo por lo que todavía es conocido ahora, su uso de textil en la sastrería y cómo él

was able to kind of soften tailoring and revolutionise it by using all the fabrics that he was introduced estuvo|capaz|de|una especie|de|suavizar|sastrería|y|revolucionar|eso|al|usar|todas|las|telas|que|él|fue|introducido pudo suavizar la sastrería y revolucionarla utilizando todas las telas que le presentaron.

by Chiruti. por|Chiruti por Chiruti.

Really that whole way that the Beatles looked, the way that all of the mods looked in the realmente|esa|toda|manera|que|los|Beatles|se veían|la|manera|que|todos|de|los|mods|se veían|en|los Realmente, toda la forma en que se veían los Beatles, la forma en que todos los mods se veían en los

60s was Italian tailoring and that was all based on these kind of very neat, very precise, 60 fue la sastrería italiana y todo eso se basaba en estos tipos de estilos muy ordenados, muy precisos,

personal and professional relationship. personal|y|profesional|relación relación personal y profesional.

of different designers and I think that that sets him on the path that we now associate with him. de|diferentes|diseñadores|y|yo|pienso|que|eso|establece|lo|en|el|camino|que|nosotros|ahora|asociamos|con|él de diferentes diseñadores y creo que eso lo coloca en el camino que ahora asociamos con él.

Really it was off the back of all of this freelance and the money that Armani had made realmente|eso|fue|de|la|espalda|de|todo|de|esto|freelance|y|el|dinero|que|Armani|había|ganado Realmente fue a raíz de todo este trabajo freelance y el dinero que Armani había ganado

Volkswagen that they owned together to get seed capital of $10,000 to start their own company. Volkswagen|que|ellos|poseían|juntos|para|obtener|capital||de|para|iniciar|su|propia|compañía Volkswagen que poseían juntos para obtener capital semilla de $10,000 para iniciar su propia empresa.

Don Mello actually said in one of his early collections that the lighting was so bad, Don|Mello|en realidad|dijo|en|una|de|sus|tempranas|colecciones|que|la|iluminación|estaba|tan|mala Don Mello en realidad dijo en una de sus primeras colecciones que la iluminación era tan mala,

she could see the colours of the clouds better and she bought the collection because what Armani |||||||||y||||||| poder ver mejor los colores de las nubes y compró la colección porque lo que Armani

did at that time was to, in very broad terms, to soften menswear and to harden womenswear. hizo en ese momento fue, en términos muy generales, suavizar la moda masculina y endurecer la moda femenina.

So it was really quite fresh but in a very kind of refined way. así que|eso|fue|realmente|bastante|fresco|pero|en|una|muy|tipo|de|refinado|manera Así que era realmente bastante fresco pero de una manera muy refinada.

working women and in the 70s that seemed revolutionary and obviously what it actually trabajadoras|mujeres|y|en|los|años 70|eso|parecía|revolucionario|y|obviamente|lo que|eso|realmente mujeres trabajadoras y en los años 70 eso parecía revolucionario y, obviamente, lo que en realidad

In the history of the company, GFT gave them financial backing and this was really integral en|la|historia|de|la|compañía|GFT|dio|a ellos|financiero|respaldo|y|esto|fue|realmente|integral En la historia de la empresa, GFT les proporcionó apoyo financiero y esto fue realmente integral

being founded. ser|fundados su fundación.

to Paris and it was this rise of Italy as a commercial and a creative force in fashion a|París|y|eso|fue|este|auge|de|Italia|como|una|comercial|y|una|creativa|fuerza|en|la moda a París y fue este auge de Italia como una fuerza comercial y creativa en la moda

and a real challenge to the kind of supremacy of Paris at that period. y|un|verdadero|desafío|a|la|clase|de|supremacía|de|París|en|ese|período y un verdadero desafío a la supremacía de París en ese período.

GQ referred to it in the late 70s as the total look. GQ|se refirió|a|eso|en|los|finales|años 70|como|el|total|look GQ se refirió a ello a finales de los 70 como el look total.

In Armani coming to America in 1979, it's notable that that was the first time his clothes en|Armani|viniendo|a|América|en|es|notable|que|eso|fue|la|primera|vez|su|ropa En 1979, cuando Armani llegó a América, es notable que esa fue la primera vez que sus prendas

were available in the country and by the end of the 80s, Armani had become the biggest estaban|disponibles|en|el|país|y|para|el|final|de|los|80|Armani|había|convertido|el|más grande estuvieron disponibles en el país y para finales de los 80, Armani se había convertido en el diseñador europeo más vendido en toda Estados Unidos.

selling European designer in the whole of the United States. Creo que después de los 70, los 80 realmente se convirtieron en una década que se trataba de diseñadores,

I think after the 70s, the 80s really became a decade that was about designers, yo|pienso|después|los|70|los|80|realmente|se convirtió|una|década|que|fue|sobre|diseñadores

more so actually than the clothes. más|así|en realidad|que|las|prendas más que en realidad que la ropa.

in this business corporate sense, but that really enhanced their elegance and their beauty, en|este|negocio|corporativo|sentido|sino|eso|realmente|realzó|su|elegancia|y||belleza en este sentido corporativo del negocio, pero que realmente realzaban su elegancia y su belleza,

been used previously. sido|usado|previamente se ha utilizado anteriormente.

They were soft and fluid. ellos|eran|suaves|y|fluidos Eran suaves y fluidos.

about the way in which they sold their garments. acerca|la|manera|en|que|ellos|vendieron|sus|prendas sobre la forma en que vendían sus prendas.

So really from the very beginning, it was one store in major cities that was selling así|realmente|desde|el|muy|principio|eso|fue|una|tienda|en|principales|ciudades|que|estaba|vendiendo Así que realmente desde el principio, era una tienda en ciudades importantes que estaba vendiendo

very considered. muy|considerado muy considerado.

brand to a worldwide audience. marca a una audiencia mundial.

And you were beautiful y|tú|eras|hermoso Y eras hermosa

This was very interesting in the sense that they were an extension of the brand, so more esto|fue|muy|interesante|en|el|sentido|que|ellos|eran|una|extensión|de|la|marca|así|más Esto fue muy interesante en el sentido de que eran una extensión de la marca, así que más

line. línea línea.

that you already have. que|tú|ya|tienes que ya tienes.

do it because he knew he was launching Emporio Armani and he knew the publicity that it would hacer|eso|porque|él|sabía|él|estaba|lanzando|Emporio|Armani|y|él|sabía|la|publicidad|que|eso|lo haría porque sabía que estaba lanzando Emporio Armani y sabía la publicidad que generaría para él.

generate for him. generar para él.

this sphere of film. esta|esfera|de|cine esta esfera del cine.

I think when you watch that film, when you look at it, at times it's like an extended yo|pienso|cuando|tú|miras|esa|película|cuando|tú|miras|a|eso|a|veces|es|como|un|extendido Creo que cuando ves esa película, cuando la miras, a veces es como un anuncio extendido

advert for Armani. anuncio|para|Armani de Armani.

You know, you look at the stills from it and they could be Armani advertising campaigns tú|sabes|tú|miras|a|las|imágenes|de|eso|y|ellos|podrían|ser|Armani|| Sabes, miras las imágenes fijas de ella y podrían ser campañas publicitarias de Armani

from the same time. de|la|misma|época de la misma época.

that you could buy into. que|tú|podrías|comprar|en En la que podrías invertir.

Commercially, it was incredibly savvy to kind of capitalize on the publicity that was generated comercialmente|eso|fue|increíblemente|astuto|para|tipo|de|capitalizar|en|la|publicidad|que|fue|generada Comercialmente, fue increíblemente astuto capitalizar la publicidad que se generó

from that. de|eso a partir de eso.

You lured me in the sky. tú|atraíste|me|en|el|cielo Me atraíste en el cielo.

Hollywood's biggest films. Hollywood|más grandes|películas las películas más grandes de Hollywood.

What I find remarkable is that certainly the later incarnations of that are for me a reflection lo que|yo|encuentro|notable|es|que|ciertamente|las|posteriores|encarnaciones|de|eso|son|para|mí|una|reflexión Lo que encuentro notable es que ciertamente las encarnaciones posteriores de eso son para mí un reflejo

into something beyond films. en|algo|más allá de|películas en algo más allá de las películas.

red carpet. roja|alfombra alfombra roja.

fashion that was desirable and low-key, which obviously is a major part of Armani's aesthetic, moda|que|estaba|deseable|y|||lo cual|obviamente|es|una|importante|parte|de|Armani|estética moda que era deseable y discreta, lo cual es, obviamente, una parte importante de la estética de Armani,

is the fact that it is quite subdued. es|el|hecho|que|eso|es|bastante|sobrio que es bastante sobria.

It is elegant. eso|es|elegante Es elegante.

It is low-key. Eso|es|| Es discreto.

It's minimalist. es|minimalista Es minimalista.

It's simple. es|simple Es simple.

wide and a real obsession in popular culture. ampliamente y es una verdadera obsesión en la cultura popular.

When Sergio Cuando Sergio

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